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section 1:

'wALKING WITH' AND DISCOVERY

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Walking with tour participants allowed for an emplaced exploration of the centro storico’s changing nature, and for residents to make their own place-based discoveries. Additionally, ‘walking with’ residents enabled me to participate in shared experiences and explore participants’ relationships with the centro storico (Pink 2007b).

 

As I approach the tour (Tra Guerra e Resistenza) I wonder whether it has been cancelled as the usual Pietra Ringadora[1] meeting point is obscured behind a screen-stand for the local market. The piazza is teeming with people, food markets, one cart laden with wine grapes, and buskers. Hearing Francesca introduce the tour is difficult as she fights to be heard over the ruckus of activity echoing around the Palazzo Comunale[2] porticos. As we make our way to the first stop, Mercato Albinelli[3], we weave through performing buskers, charity workers asking for donations and dogs on leads. The square has completely transformed from the previous week when we were able to stand in the middle, our group outnumbering the rest of the people within the piazza. This time, as we gather around some of the plaques on the east side of Piazza Grande, we are pushed towards the wall as we have to accommodate for a large food tent, the smell of steaming food distracting me from the tour.

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'The usually visible Pietra Ringadora is hidden behind a market stall and screen.'

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'Francesca explains the narrative between one of the piazza’s plaques, over the chiming of the Ghirlandina bells and busy market place.'

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'Stalls cooking fresh food and pastas fill the piazza for one of the weekends'

This vignette, combined with photographs, shows how the variable nature of the piazza’s activity and weather changes the sensorial experience of the centro storico, and also demonstrates the need for guides to be adaptable. In an interview, guide Loredana shared how she has ‘uno schema di base[4] that she adapts for each tour, based on circumstances, participant interest and her judgement.

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The ‘sociability of walking’ allowed me to build connections with walking tour participants, listening to their memories and perceptions of Modena (Lee & Ingold 2006). Through conversational interviews, it became evident that tour experiences engage with existing relationships with and conceptualisations of the historic centre. Seamon (2013) contends that place attachment is intertwined with aspects of one’s rootedness in place, the degree of personal and social involvement, and personal and group identities. When speaking with tour participants from Modena, Trieste, Naples and Iran, who are all current Modenese residents, factors such as jobs, previous cities and lifestyles all demonstrably influence their relationships and experiences with the centre. This is demonstrated by G, a Modenese resident since 1985, who gave the following explanation of her experiences of the centre:

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“Because I came from Trieste I don’t know much about the history of Modena, so I wanted to learn more about things you don’t hear every day. My children grew up here but I was always busy and didn’t have time to learn many things about Modena or the history and information about the city I was living in. Now I’m retired I have more time to learn these things, and go on tours like this.”

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Similarly, N and her husband, both from Naples, when asked if they find themselves in the centre often, said they usually go on Sundays as they both work full-time and on weekday afternoons there are ‘sempre delle cose da fare’[5]. When comparing Modena to her home city of Naples, N says Modena is “diversa…è più tranquilla...come…soft. Calma. Napoli è più caotica. Sono un po’ chiusi… i Modenesi…un po’ introversi”.[6] Similarly, A from Iran, said “I like Modena as a city but for living I’m not sure…as a foreigner it’s very difficult to socialise”. These quotes demonstrate the range of different connections to and perspectives of Modena, influenced by previous experiences both in and external to the city, but they also show the importance of sociality to place attachment. Additionally, through my observations, I noted that the tours provide a social space in which participants can share discovery experiences in the centro storico and learn about other participants.

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Beyond the social space of the tours, walking with intent to observe physical aspects of the centro storico and learn stories behind the materialities enabled participants, including me, to create new personal memories and discoveries. During the Tra Guerra e Resistenza tour, while standing outside my university in Largo Sant’Eufemia, I was surprised when guide Francesca explained the building’s previous use as a ‘direzione casa circondariale’[7], and a university ‘per il regime fascista’, ‘per la formazione della fascista perfetta’, where students ‘studiavano materie come l’eugenetica[8]. This description of just some of the building’s historical layers made me realise how unaware I had been of its history.

 

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'The now abandoned prison building which once belonged to the university.'

In addition to the guided nature of the tours facilitating such discoveries, walking through the centre allowed for unguided discoveries:

 

Walking under the porticos, G taps my arm and points towards the ceiling at beautiful painted artworks which I hadn’t noticed previously. ‘These are so beautiful! These days we don’t have time to see the small things. We’re always busy. There are so many things you miss when you’re in a hurry’. I realised that despite this not being a stop on the tour, the act of walking and actively taking in her surroundings allowed G to notice things she maybe wouldn’t have otherwise, and share these observations with other participants.

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This vignette shows that despite the tours being carefully curated, guiding participant’s gazes towards certain materialities, the act of walking and consciously observing the surroundings can foster new realisations and connections to previously unseen aspects of the centre. Aoki & Yoshimizu (2015) contend due to selectively organising memory, walking tours can limit the productive world-making potential of un-guided walking. However, given the audience of these tours and their already-established relationships with the centro storico, these walking tours provide an opportunity for residents to discover narratives of the past they may not know. Lewicka (2013) argues that historical discoveries of place like these help people to develop a sense of continuity in place, consequently fostering emotional bonds to place.

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These walking tours are important in strengthening place attachments in two ways. First, in providing participants with emplaced experiences while walking with others, tours allow participants to share experiences and memories of place while deliberately observing material aspects of the centro storico. Secondly, vignettes show that, through walking, tours enable participants to make their own discoveries beyond what is selectively emphasised by tour guides.

Foot Notes:

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[1] A large, medieval marble block usually used by many as a designated meeting place in Modena’s Piazza Grande

[2] The municipality building

[3] A central, undercover market

[4] A basic outline

[5] Always some things to do

[6] different... it's quieter... like... soft. Calm. Naples is more chaotic. They are a little closed, the Modenese... a little introverted.

[7] District prison

[8] For the fascist regime, for the formation of the perfect fascist, where students would study subjects like eugenics

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